Mon Nom

This is Bordeaux with its tie loosened, juicy plum and wild cherry, a little dried herb and grassy freshness, then soft, velvety tannins and gentle acidity. With no oak getting in the way, the fruit stays bright and generous rather than heavy or overly polished. Give it a quick decant while young, then bring on charcuterie, tomato-rich stews or a good cheeseboard.

Château Picoron is a small estate in Sainte-Colombe, now run by Australian owners Glenda and Frank Kalyk. Their 4.5-hectare vineyard sits on the clay-limestone ridge near Saint-Émilion, with each wine made from an individual parcel rather than blended across the estate. The focus is entirely on showing the different sides of Merlot, with a playful collection of palindrome-named wines and a distinctly modern take on Bordeaux.